The Florida Home-Buying Process: Your Step-by-Step Checklist

Florida's two main residential contracts are produced jointly by Florida Realtors and The Florida Bar. The standard contract (often called CRSP) requires the seller to make repairs up to a negotiated dollar cap. The AS-IS version gives you a free-look inspection period to walk away for any reason, but the seller is not on the hook for repairs. Pick the one that matches your risk tolerance.

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Your agent should pull recent sales of similar homes nearby so you can price your offer with real data. Decide on the offer price, inspection period length, financing contingency timeline, closing date, and what (if anything) you want included like appliances or window treatments.

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Earnest money is a good-faith deposit that shows the seller you're serious. In Florida, the broker holding the deposit must place it in an escrow account at a Florida-based banking institution within three business days after the contract is fully signed. Use a wire or cashier's check and confirm wiring instructions by phone with a number you already trust.

Cost: 1-3% of purchase price typical

The seller may counter on price, closing date, repair credits, or what stays with the home. Talk through each round with your agent before signing. Every change must be in writing and signed by both sides to be enforceable.

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Every Florida real estate sales contract must include a statutory radon gas warning that explains radon is a naturally occurring radioactive gas that can build up in homes and that more information is available from your county public health unit. Florida Realtors standard contracts already include this language, but check that it's there before signing.

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Make sure you receive the contract with every page initialed and signed by both you and the seller. The fully executed contract is the start of every other deadline in the deal, so save it where you can find it.

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Florida sellers of residential property must provide a flood disclosure addendum before or at the time of contract that says whether the property has ever flooded, whether prior flood insurance claims were filed, and whether the seller has received federal flood assistance. Read it closely and ask follow-up questions if anything is unclear.

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If you're buying a condo resale, the seller must give you the declaration, articles of incorporation, bylaws and rules, the latest financial report, the association's Q&A sheet, and the most recent inspection report (including milestone inspection reports for buildings three stories or higher). After you receive all required documents you have three business days to cancel the contract with your deposit back.

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If the home is in a homeowners association, the seller must give you a disclosure summary, the recorded governing documents, the most recent year-end financial report, the current assessment, any special assessments, and any approval requirements. After receiving everything you have three business days to cancel with no penalty. Read the rules carefully — things like rental restrictions, pet limits, and assessment history are big.

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If the home sits seaward of Florida's Coastal Construction Control Line, the seller must give you a written disclosure that future construction or major renovation may require a coastal construction permit from the Florida Department of Environmental Protection. Property in this zone is also subject to coastal storm and erosion risk. Ask for the disclosure if it isn't volunteered.

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Florida is not an attorney-closing state. Closings are typically handled by licensed title companies and title insurance agents who run the title search, issue title insurance, prepare the settlement statement, disburse funds, and record the deed. Pick a reputable title company (your lender or agent can recommend one) and send them your contract.

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Choose an inspector with experience in homes like the one you're buying. They'll check the roof, plumbing, electrical, HVAC, foundation, and visible structure. Ask for sample reports before you book and make sure they carry errors-and-omissions insurance.

Cost: $300-600 typical

Try to be there for at least the last hour. The inspector will walk you through major findings while standing in front of them. You'll learn things about your future home you'd never pick up from a written report.

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Florida insurers heavily discount premiums when a home has wind-resistant features like hurricane straps, a hip roof, or impact-rated openings. A wind mitigation inspection documents those features on the Uniform Mitigation Verification form, which your insurer uses to lower your rate. Order this in parallel with the home inspection.

Cost: $75-150 typical

For homes generally 20+ years old, most Florida insurers require a four-point inspection that reports on the roof, electrical, plumbing, and HVAC. Even if not required, it gives you a clearer picture of the systems that cost the most to replace.

Cost: $75-200 typical

Florida sellers must disclose facts they actually know about that materially affect the home's value if those facts aren't obvious to you. This rule comes from the 1985 Florida Supreme Court case Johnson v. Davis. Examples include prior sinkhole activity, unpermitted work, leaks, or pest infestations. If your inspection or HOA documents hint at something, ask in writing.

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Your options depend on which contract you signed. Under the standard FAR/BAR contract, the seller must address defects up to the agreed repair cap. Under the AS-IS contract, the seller is not obligated to fix anything but you can usually walk away during your inspection period and get your deposit back. Decide with your agent before the deadline.

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Pre-approval is not a loan. After you go under contract you must submit a full application with the specific property, contract price, and any updated income and asset documents. The clock on your financing contingency starts now.

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Your lender hires a third-party appraiser to confirm the home is worth the contract price. You usually pay for the appraisal up front. If the home appraises below the contract price, you can ask the seller to lower the price, bring extra cash, or in some cases walk away under your financing contingency.

Cost: $400-700 typical

Once you're confident about your closing date, ask your lender to lock the interest rate. A rate lock protects you if rates rise before closing but usually expires after 30-60 days. Confirm the lock in writing.

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Underwriters will ask for things like an updated bank statement, a letter of explanation for a deposit, or proof of homeowners insurance. Every day you delay is a day your closing slips. Set up a folder, scan documents to PDF, and reply same-day when you can.

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Your lender will pull your credit again right before closing. New credit cards, financed furniture, or a job change can blow up your loan approval. Wait until after closing to make any big financial moves.

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Your lender will not close without a bound insurance policy effective on the closing date. In Florida this can take longer than you expect because of the tight insurance market — some carriers won't write near the coast, and Citizens Property Insurance Corporation may be your only option. Get the binder to your lender as early as possible.

Cost: First-year premium (often $2,000-6,000+)

The title company runs a title search and issues a commitment that lists liens, easements, and exceptions to coverage. Read it with your agent or attorney. Anything unusual (open permits, old mortgages still on title, boundary issues) needs to be cleared before closing.

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At least three business days before closing, your lender must send you a Closing Disclosure that lists your loan terms, monthly payment, and all closing costs. Compare it line by line to your Loan Estimate and the earlier good-faith numbers. Ask your lender about anything that moved.

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Within 24-48 hours of closing, walk the home one last time. Check that agreed repairs were done, appliances and fixtures the seller agreed to leave are still there, and the home is in the condition the contract requires. Bring your phone for photos.

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The title company will send you exact wiring instructions for cash to close. Wire fraud is a serious risk — always call the title company at a number you already trust to verbally confirm wiring instructions before sending money. Send the wire one business day before closing so it lands in time.

Cost: $15-50 wire fee typical

Florida sellers of existing single-family homes must give you an informational brochure on the state's energy efficiency rating program before you're contractually obligated. It is published by the Florida Department of Business and Professional Regulation. Make sure you have it in writing or by email so this requirement is met.

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In Florida, closings are typically held at a title company's office, not at a law firm. The closing agent will walk you through the deed, the mortgage and note (if you're getting a loan), the settlement statement, and a stack of lender disclosures. Read each document and ask questions before you sign.

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Any cash you still owe at the table is paid by wire or cashier's check. The title company applies your funds to the down payment, prepaid taxes and insurance, lender fees, and title charges shown on the final settlement statement.

Cost: 2-5% of purchase price typical

After signing, the title company files the new deed and mortgage with the county clerk where the property sits. Recording is what legally puts the home in your name. The title company sends you a recorded copy after the clerk returns it.

Cost: Recording fees included in closing costs

Once the deed is recorded and funds are disbursed, the home is yours and you get the keys, garage remotes, and any access codes. Change the locks soon after — you don't know who else may have a copy.

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Transfer electric, water, gas, internet, and trash service into your name effective on the closing date. Confirm your homeowners insurance policy is active and your lender has the binder. Save the recorded deed and final settlement statement with your tax records — you'll need them.

Cost: Deposits vary by utility